There are several examples of basic physics that are involved in all kinds of surfing principles, equations, and concepts including the conservation of energy equations. The energy of the surfer at the top of the wave is equal to surfer at the bottom of the wave. The gravitational potential energy plus the kinetic energy of the surfer at the top, or the peak of the wave, is equal to the kinetic energy at the bottom of the wave where GPE is equivalent to zero. ("The Physics of Surfing (Part One: Dropping In)." Popular Science. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 May 2014.)
The physical structure of the board is important because it determines its performance ability. The weight of the surfer is distributed evenly through out the board, allowing the surfer to stand. Archimedes Principle of Buoyancy is an extremely valuable principle to consider when selecting the raw materials, which go into a surfboard. Floatation is key, especially for smaller waves with less energy. For this reason, the core of surfboards is commonly consisting of polyurethane foam. The foam is light and buoyant, as well as easy to shape. The only problem with the foam is that it alone cannot with stand the forces of both the surfers weight and the impact of waves crashing on top of the board. This is why one, or multiple wooden stringers are added to the board and acts as the “I-beam” of the board. The weakness of the foam is also why the board is wrapped completely in fiberglass cloth and sealed with resin. The fiberglass adds strength to the board as well as makes the board watertight. A thicker fiberglass cloth is applied to the topside of the board versus the bottom. This is due to the impact that the surfer will face is often greater than the forces or the water applied to the bottom of the board. (Edwards, Anthony. "Illumin - The Engineering Behind Surfing." Illumin - The Engineering Behind Surfing. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 May 2014)
The physics of a nose rider surfboard differs greatly from the physics of any other type of board. The shape of a long board that was shaped for the purpose of nose riding is unique. The shape of the board must generate forces both upward and downward to create a successful nose-ride. Other surfboards are designed to be as fast as possible and skim across the surface of the water. The nose must create lift while the tail of the board must create drag and a downward force to keep the nose from sinking underwater while the weight of the rider is applied to the nose. This is done by a special rail and contour combination on nose-riders, which is similar to that of an airplane wing. It involves Bernoulli’s Principle. The bottom of the front of the board is either flat or concave so that when water travels across the bottom, it is a shorter distance. The rocker of the board also contributes to the downward force applied to the tail dealing with fluid dynamics. Unlike any other board, the tail has a greater rocker than the nose. As water flows over the rails of the tail, the water catches the flipped up tail and consequently pushes the tail downward, thus the nose upward, like a lever. ("The Physics of Noseriding." YouTube. YouTube, 07 Feb. 2008. Web. 9 May 2014.)
The physical structure of the board is important because it determines its performance ability. The weight of the surfer is distributed evenly through out the board, allowing the surfer to stand. Archimedes Principle of Buoyancy is an extremely valuable principle to consider when selecting the raw materials, which go into a surfboard. Floatation is key, especially for smaller waves with less energy. For this reason, the core of surfboards is commonly consisting of polyurethane foam. The foam is light and buoyant, as well as easy to shape. The only problem with the foam is that it alone cannot with stand the forces of both the surfers weight and the impact of waves crashing on top of the board. This is why one, or multiple wooden stringers are added to the board and acts as the “I-beam” of the board. The weakness of the foam is also why the board is wrapped completely in fiberglass cloth and sealed with resin. The fiberglass adds strength to the board as well as makes the board watertight. A thicker fiberglass cloth is applied to the topside of the board versus the bottom. This is due to the impact that the surfer will face is often greater than the forces or the water applied to the bottom of the board. (Edwards, Anthony. "Illumin - The Engineering Behind Surfing." Illumin - The Engineering Behind Surfing. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 May 2014)
The physics of a nose rider surfboard differs greatly from the physics of any other type of board. The shape of a long board that was shaped for the purpose of nose riding is unique. The shape of the board must generate forces both upward and downward to create a successful nose-ride. Other surfboards are designed to be as fast as possible and skim across the surface of the water. The nose must create lift while the tail of the board must create drag and a downward force to keep the nose from sinking underwater while the weight of the rider is applied to the nose. This is done by a special rail and contour combination on nose-riders, which is similar to that of an airplane wing. It involves Bernoulli’s Principle. The bottom of the front of the board is either flat or concave so that when water travels across the bottom, it is a shorter distance. The rocker of the board also contributes to the downward force applied to the tail dealing with fluid dynamics. Unlike any other board, the tail has a greater rocker than the nose. As water flows over the rails of the tail, the water catches the flipped up tail and consequently pushes the tail downward, thus the nose upward, like a lever. ("The Physics of Noseriding." YouTube. YouTube, 07 Feb. 2008. Web. 9 May 2014.)